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@@adriano8809 i have a video loading new hulls. Same exact procedure except you don't have to lin anything up in station 4 (pre-crimp), simply pick if you want six or eight points and crimp. Easier with new hulls. Let me know if that answers your question or if you have any others.

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 thank you. I already found a webstore for powder, shots and wads, what would be the best webstore for primed hulls?

@@jamesp739 I do have a video on left handed handling for right handed people. Just to be clear, should I do all of these videos left-handed? I do think that this is a great idea and will work on it. Thanks for the kind and constructive feedback

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 The short answer is yes, re-do your 3-part/4-part video series showing how to load/unload/clear malfunctions both left and right handed. Re-doing the video series would keep all the related information together, and provide an opportunity for you clean up any verbage should you want/need to. It would add very little time to the videos as the safety information is same. Personal opinion, but try to keep each video under 10 minutes. While you're at it, consider showing various ways the controls can be manipulated. Gun size and hand size have a lot to do with it. For instance, even though most handguns are designed or set up for righ-handers, some right-handers don't have the strength or dexterity to manipulate the magazine catch or slide catch with their right thumb. In such cases, it's OK to use the left thumb to manipulate those controls or to rack the slide to close it. The key is that it is a safe method, and once a student chooses a method, they stick with it. Is it ideal? Perhaps not, but it works. And for all the snipers living in RUclips Land, consider throwing in a pistol that has the magazine catch at the base of the grip; something like a Ruger MK whatever, .22 or Walther P38. You've got 99% of the bases covered, but you know they're out there. With all that said, having done training videos in my other life (I'm retiired now), I know that it can easily take several hours to produce a good 5 or 10-minute video. Producing really good ones can take even longer. The question then becomes, how much time do you want to devote to redoing the series? If you decide to do nothing else, may I suggest providing a link to your left-handed video in the descriptions of the series. Best regards and be safe

@@jamesp739 I have added the left-handed techniques video to the description of this series. I will work on the left-handed version of this series later this year (probably once deer season comes in and I can't shoot at my range anymore).

Thank you for your kind words, I appreciate you watching.

Why?

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 cause that's how they did it. You drive them just flush so when you drive them out from the other side it doesn't split out any wood. So you know which way they go in and out. You see lots of old guns with split out wood around the pin holes from driving them the wrong way.

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 Here's another little tip. You see lots of old guns with wallowed out lock mortises or missing wood around the lock or gouge marks from prying the lock out of the mortise. If they have two lock screws you take out the forward one first. Lots of old guns have a beveled forward edge that fits into the lock wood around mortise Then you loosen the rear bolt. Then put it back in a two or three threads. Then gently tap on the screw head to loosen the lock from the mortise Not prying or wriggling required and no damage to the gun.

You do the same with revolver grips

@@johnndavis7647 I think if you are careful how you do it, it shouldn't matter which direction. I think the big issue is that people don't use proper punches and they rush. Just my $0.02

I only load brass hulls with blackpowder, not sure that folks would want to load slugs with BP. It can be done though. Is that something you would want to see?

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 It would be cool to see because I can't find much on them let alone any load data, but yes I would like to see it:)

That's why I like doing these tests. Some rounds don't work out of short barrels even if they work really well out of say a 4 or 5 inch barrel. Doesn't mean it is a bad round, just not a great choice for that barrel length. Thanks for watching.

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 That's very true. Its especially difficult in a 38 snubby to find ammo that both expands well & penetrates to a good depth. They're out there but there's not as many as in 9mm Or 357 mag

Sort of. The center station would work, but you would have to move the wad fingers down and drill a new hole for it to attach. Stations 1 and 2 would work. I don't think stations 4 and 5 (pre-crimp and crimp) would work. But you could roll crimp instead. I have a video on how to do that if you need it.

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 Appreciate the info. Thanks, and I'll check out your other video when I get a chance.

I am making it soon, will be up by the end of this month. Please check back near the end of July, it is on the schedule.

Absolutely, just evenly heat ot all the way around.

Interesting, wonder why they changed?

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 there’s videos on RUclips that are 10 years old with people unboxing them pre assembled, so I don’t know.

The extractor doesn't go over the rim of the cartridge in normal operation. The cartridge slides under the extractor. So loading the way I like to do it, forces the extractor over the rim. Most guns (like the one I use in the video) have a spring that allows the extractor to go over the rim in this manner - but it is not the normal operation of the gun. That is why I conclude that it increases wear on the extractor - you are doing something that is outside of the normal operating cycle of the gun - therefore putting more wear on that part. I think this is ONLY an issue if you are someone who never really shoots your gun (you only load and unload every day). Even then - you will catch it if there is an issue because the gun will fail to extract when you unload. The ND comment is a fact - the law of averages. The more you handle a loaded gun, the higher the probability the more chances there are for a mistake to be made. Now good gun handling techniques should bring that back to zero, but I have seen enough "experienced" people handle guns very poorly to know that is not the case. Every ND I have seen on the range has been with highly experienced shooters, not novices. Does it apply to everyone - probably not. Some folks are superb gun handlers. But I am talking about the average (and below). I hope that clarifies. Thanks for watching.

You use the center station for just powder and then roll crimp. See my video on buckshot and it's pretty much the same as that

Amen

@@murphyfirearmstraining3630 10 bucks a hull plus shipping for the mighty 10… I’ll pass and keep cutting down plastic hulls!

I shoot mostly 158 and it is less than 158. Comparable to 125 grain. Definitely doesn't recoil noticeably more. I was surprised since their 380 auto version was so snappy, but the 38 and 357 magnum versions didn't recoil a lot.

Do you only have one brand of primer and brass? If the brass is mixed, then I would try a different brand of primer (may not be fitting tight enough). Also need to know how the primers feel when you seat them. Also, are you seating your primers below flush? That's the first place I would start.

@murphyfirearmstraining3630 what is the flush?, sorry I'm new to this. They are mixed brass and I was thinking about getting a haul of brass the same kind as used in the book.

@@Exotic9069 so your primers when seated should be slightly below the back of the case. If they are even (flush) with the back of the case or above flush (proud), they may not be seated properly. This would cause them to back out. Thay would be the first thing I would check. Second- with supplies like they are, it could be a slightly small primer (you are using small rifle primers and NOT small pistol primers right)? Thay would be my second thing I would try. Third would be the actual powder charge. Sometimes too light of a charge can vause funny things.

@murphyfirearmstraining3630 in that case yes they are a tad below the back of the case, and yes they are small rifle primers.

@@Exotic9069 so in that case either your pressure is too low and is doing something funny OR you have a batch of slightly undersized primers. Do you have any other brand of primer available to try? If not, then I would bump your load up from the minimum 0.5 to 1.0 grains and see if that solves the problem. Sometimes loading at min or max weird things happen.

I have a video that MAY help you - ruclips.net/video/f0fWGj2kt1k/видео.htmlsi=m9ALDU1_1L7TQkwR This goes through the two adjustment screws and what will cause this. Most likely your REAR tension screw is too loose. Tighten that, and perhaps adjust the front trigger as well to get the correct tension. I hope this helps.

Thank you so much

My experience with this gun has been positive. It is a very nice gun with a good trigger pull. I think it's nicer than the current raging hunter line. Overall I think taurus makes a good revolver, and I wouldn't be afraid to buy one personally today. I own a model 66 in 357 mag a judge, and this one, love them all.

Overall, I like it for what I bought it for. Glad it helped.